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Hemmerle

Haute Joaillerie | Contemporary Jewellery
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Hemmerle is a fourth-generation family-run jeweller at the vanguard of contemporary design. Founded in 1893 in Munich, Germany, it is considered one of the world’s most inventive jewellers and remains renowned for its one-of-a-kind works characterised by innovative material combinations and a dedication to craftsmanship and quality. Each jewel conceived is handcrafted and layered with cultural references and is as original as a work of art.

Today, Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle run the business, with the continued support of Stefan and Sylveli Hemmerle. Hemmerle’s jewellery has been exhibited in museums around the world and can be found in the permanent collections of the Victoria & Albert Museum, London; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum, New York; and Die Neue Sammlung, Munich.

Hemmerle’s 129-year history has distinctly informed its layers of knowledge, expertise and design principles today. As a family-run house over four generations, an ethos has evolved where freedom and a belief in pushing boundaries are at the centre of thinking and enquiry. From its history as medal makers to Bavarian royalty and the Vatican to the influence of German art movements like the Bauhaus and Neue Sachlichkeit, Hemmerle has learnt to take inspiration from both the past and present, applied with an innovative and bold perspective.

The Hemmerle family travel across the world treasure hunting for rare materials and the house’s signature styles include structural pieces with geometric lines, the open-ended harmony bangle with its seamless closure, necklaces hung with a luxuriant tassel and diamonds set upside down to give a ‘spiky’ effect. About 150 creations are made each year and a single piece can take over 500 hours of work and years can pass waiting to find the perfect component to complete a piece. Dedication to craftsmanship, researching innovative techniques and the bold use of materials, as well as making everything under one roof at the house’s atelier in Munich with its twenty mastercraftsmen, are all key components that constitute Hemmerle’s philosophy and ideology.

Insights From The Exhibitor

At Hemmerle’s only atelier, all jewels are made on-site, where master-craftsmen continue to research and develop multiple crafts from patina development to stone setting. Striking a balance between traditional techniques passed down through generations and extensive experimentation with new processes, Hemmerle continuously challenges its craft to break down self-imposed limits and open new possibilities. No restraints are set on the time each creation takes, with over 500 hours of craftsmanship often dedicated to a single jewel.

Reflecting the originality, individuality and beauty of our world, Hemmerle blends the vocabulary of sculpture with the functional demands of jewellery design to create one-of-a-kind, enduring and timeless jewels. Little hierarchy is given to materials where rare stones and unorthodox metals are often the starting point and drive creativity. Striking material combinations, unusual rare woods and treasure hunted artefacts, the development of its own patinas and the use of a variety of metals are some of the components that distinguish Hemmerle.

Exhibitions

Past
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Beautiful Creatures
Jewelry Inspired by the Animal Kingdom
American Museum of Natural History in New York
Jun 12–Sep 19, 2021
On view
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Hemmerle's 1900 Bishop’s Cross at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
A Bishop’s Cross created by Hemmerle in 1900 has joined the permanent collection of The Met.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Mar 4, 2019
On view
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Harmony Bangle inspired by Egypt joined the permanent collection of the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York
Dec 1, 2014
On view
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Hemmerle's HARMONY BANGLE acquired by London’s Victoria and Albert Museum for the William and Judith
Victoria & Albert Museum, London
Jan 18, 2010
Past
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ANIMALIA FASHION
Gallerie degli Uffizi, Florence
Jan 8–May 5, 2019
Past
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Beauty - Cooper Hewitt Design Triennial
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New Yo
Feb 12–Aug 21, 2016
Past
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Pearls
V&A and the Qatar Museums Authority explored the history of pearls.
Victoria & Albert Museum, London
Sep 21–Jan 19, 2014
Past
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The Pearl Exhibition
Museum of Islamic Art, Doha, Qatar
Jan 1–Jun 1, 2010
Past
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Serpentina: The Snake in Jewellery Around the World
Hemmerle’s snake bracelets made in 1994 were included.
Smuckmuseum, Pforzheim
Nov 1–Feb 1, 2012
Past
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The Nature of Diamonds
Hemmerle’s gecko brooch, crafted out of green diamonds was included.
American Museum of Natural History, New York,
Jan 1–1, 2010
Past
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Myths: Jewels Today – Seen by Stefan Hemmerle
A three-month exhibition showcasing 145 Hemmerle jewels. 30,000 people visit.
Die Neue Sammlung, Munich
Nov 18–Feb 18, 2007