Material Wood, heron feathers, pearls, spinels, emeralds, beetle wings, metal thread, and silk thread
Dimensions 34 × 5 × 5 cm
Place of Creation Mughal dominions, India
Price Available upon inquiry
Status Vetted

About the Work

This large, imposing turban ornament was made in nineteenth-century northern India, likely in Bahawalpur, in present-day Pakistan. A symbol of dignity and respect and worn in a variety of fashions, princely turbans were bedecked with strings of pearls and bejewelled ornaments. Known in Hindustani as kalgi, meaning ‘plume or crest worn on a turban’, this type of feather-shaped turban adornment is also known as jigha, likewise from the Persian word for ‘crest, tuft or aigrette’.


Bridging costume and fashion with jewellery, this turban plume comprises two sections: the bejewelled plume holder and multiple dark heron crown plumes. With a wooden core, the holder is decorated in three distinctive sections. The conical lower part of the wooden structure was first wrapped in crimson silk thread, and then covered in cord made from gilt-metal thread. The jali-type decoration is made from small irregular seed pearls, bordered by two strands of slightly larger pearls at the upper and lower edges of the middle section. The upper section of the plume holder is shaped as a crown, with a petal-shaped frieze at its lower and upper edges. The petals are made from finely cut and shaped iridescent beetle wings, circled by woven gilt-metal thread. Crowning the upper petal frieze are several very large drop-shaped pearls (damʿah), some slightly baroque in form (known in the Persian Gulf as imtāz), interspersed with highly polished baroque spinel beads. Fully drilled, the pearls are capped with small, round emerald beads, and knotted into tassels of gilt-metal thread.


Apart from the refined techniques employed, the biogenic materials used in the manufacture of this turban plume are fascinating. The feathers used can be identified as those of the grey heron (Ardea cinerea), a bird with distinctive crown plumes Given that each individual has only a limited number of crown plumes, obtaining so many feathers must have been a difficult, costly task. The beetle wings, or elytra (their modified, hardened forewings or wing cases), used belong to the Buprestidae family of jewel beetles, or metallic wood-boring beetles, and may be identified as local Indian species of the Sternocera, likely S. aequisignata, given the size, shape, texture, and above all the bright metallic green colour with blue-purple sheen of the material used.


Pearls have been prized in the subcontinent for millennia. The large drop and baroque-shaped pearls that crown the turban-holder are exceptional in their size and colour and are likely to have originated in the Persian Gulf fisheries. The principal pearl oyster species in the Gulf, the common Pinctada radiata and Pinctada margaritifera, produce, as a rule, pearls no larger than 4-6 mm. Pearls larger than 8-9 mm are thus very rare. Sizeable, round, or near-round Gulf pearls were considered exceptional and exceedingly expensive in the early modern period, especially when matched in size, shape, colour and lustre to form strings. The same was true of large baroque-shaped pearls—frequently natural blister pearls, called nīmro in the Gulf—rightly considered wonders of nature and collected as priceless rarities in Europe and Asia.

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Provenance

Likely Muhammad Bahawal Khan III, 6th Nawab of Bahawalpur, first half of the nineteenth century; thence by descent. Private collection UK, 1960s. This artwork does not have the gem certificate required of the TEFAF vetting guidelines.

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