Material White and yellow gold, diamonds
Dimensions Length 52.5cm (20.6in) and 61cm (24in)
Place of Creation Germany
Status Vetted

About the Work

In this pair of necklaces, carré diamonds and antique Indian polki diamonds—a traditional Mughal cut with few facets that follow the lines of the original rough—are caught in airy rhombohedral nests. The nests are constructed from white-gold nature casts of the flower stalks of the daylily (Hemerocallis), whose blossoms last for only a single day. The yellow gold of the diamond settings continues in the caps and beads—nature casts of beechnuts—whose floral engravings are filled with black vitreous enamel.

The nests are arranged asymmetrically and irregularly, allowing the necklaces to be worn in multiple ways, including joined together as a single long chain.


In this piece, Otto Jakob explores nature casting, an ancient technique found in Etruscan and Hellenistic jewelry and revived in 16th-century Europe, most famously by Wenzel Jamnitzer. The essence of the method is the use of a real botanical or organic specimen to create a mold for metal casting. During the process, the natural object is completely burned away, leaving behind a negative space that preserves its exact form. When this void is filled with molten gold, the result is a precise gold replica that retains the textures, surfaces, and structures of the original.

In this necklace, the technique was used to create the nests that hold the diamonds. Each nest is unique and distinct from the others, as each was assembled from a different combination of nature casts taken from the flower stalks of daylilies grown in the atelier garden. The final result is harmonious yet free of monotonous repetition.

Nature casting is one of Jakob’s characteristic techniques and has been a consistent presence in his work since the 1980s.

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Provenance

Atelier of the artist.

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