for creating precious objects that complement daily life. By the 1920s,

the Maison spotlighted functionality through its beauty compacts

designed to hold a range of items. This box follows from that tradition,

while reflecting the aesthetics of the 1940s.

Platinum, long a favorite material, was requisitioned as part of the war

effort. Consequently, yellow gold returned to its preeminent position,

as illustrated in this piece. The metal is delicately engraved, in the

style of pill cases and snuff boxes fashionable in the 18th century. The

resulting motif, concentric and naturalistic, accentuates the threedimensional

quality imparted by the arrangement of the gemstones:

a ruby heart encircled by two rows of turquoise. The choice of stones

—both precious and ornamental—attests to Van Cleef & Arpels’

penchant for color combinations. The halo pattern echoes the

goldwork, enriching the composition with a singular depth effect.