Material ivory backed with mother-of-pearl (with sew-through shank), under glass
Dimensions 4 × 4 cm
Place of Creation France
Status Vetted

About the Work

The late eighteenth century was the golden age of the button: it reflected who one was. Creativity and diversity were expressed through buttons, which became a medium for historical events, technical innovation, and states of mind; they could evoke love or friendship; in short, they reflected the world within a tiny space – that was their challenge!

In the case of the Marquise de Grollier, these buttons decorated with botanical motifs, painted on ivory with mother-of-pearl backing, reveal a special side of her output and her enduring passion for flowers. She adapted these cherished motifs to two small-scale circular formats, which in turn disseminated her artistry. These buttons are precious evidence of how she explored painting in various media, both large and small, and they have remained in the family of the Marquise de Grollier to this day.

All the floral species depicted here are identifiable, sometimes appearing together on the same button (cornflowers and narcissus on one of them, for example).

Even if large buttons were worn on frock coats – small ones being reserved instead for sleeves or waistcoats – here we see pictorial quality and delicacy of execution transcending utilitarian function. They were no doubt gifts for people who frequented the “intimate gatherings” held by the Marquise, such as Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun.

The role of the boutonnier was limited to the mounting of the button: his task was to set the glass circles and (on the back) the shanks used for sewing. The care taken in the assembly of these small fashion items, their excellent condition, delicate craftsmanship and composition, and their very number, bear witness in a unique way to their era – a period that revived the taste for the wonders of nature through true expressions of decorative art.

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Provenance

Collection of the Marquise de Grollier, bequeathed to her daughter, Alexandrine Claudine de Grollier (1763-1849), who married Benoît Maurice François, Marquis de Sales (1760-1797) in 1781; their daughter Pauline Françoise Joséphine de Sales (1786-1852), Baronne de Roussy; her son, Eugène François Félix Joseph de Roussy de Sales (1822-1915), Château de Thorens, Thorens-Glières (Haute-Savoie); his son, Comte François-Maurice de Roussy de Sales (1897-1945), in the same château; his son, Comte Jean-François Roussy de Sales (1927-1999), likewise; collection of his heirs, 1999-2025; 2025, Galerie Canesso, Paris.

Literature

Literature:
Véronique Damian, L’art au féminin. Portrait de la marquise de Grollier (1741-1828) par Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun (1755-1842), exh. cat., Paris, Galerie Canesso, 13 September – 19 October 2018, pp. 16-19.

Exhibited:
-L’art au féminin. Portrait de la marquise de Grollier (1741-1828) par Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun (1755-1842), Paris, Galerie Canesso, 13 September – 19 October 2018;
-Végétal – L’École de la beauté, ed. by Marc Jeanson, Paris, Palais des Beaux-Arts, 16 June – 4 September 2022.

View artwork at TEFAF Maastricht 2026

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